I arrived in Varkala yesterday, and I like it here a lot more than kovalam already. The location itself is quite dramatic, all the buildings line the cliff top, with the beach sitting 250 feet or so below. The place is also a backpacker hub rather than a package tour destination like kovalam.
I have to say I'm a pretty rubbish traveller so far, my main crime being that I took an air-conditioned taxi the 70km from kovalam to here! It cost Rs 1400 which is about 15 pounds, which is really quite a lot of money in india and not in the spirit of 'roughing it' at all. Oh well, I'm going to get a cab to my next destination as its only about 5-10 km away, but after that I'm going to resolve to use trains and buses for the bulky parts of my journey. Anway I can't very well get a taxi up the entire 1000 mile coastline.... hmmm can I?!
Before departing for Varkala I'd read in the lonely planet about a great bamboo hut complex to stay at. I asked the taxi driver to drop me there, and he said "yes, yes, I know it, took your friend there". We arrived at a couple of shabby looking, two-storeyed bamboo huts that didn't exactly look like beautiful lush surroundings promised in the guide. I had a quick look round and came to the conclusion I had clearly been taken to the place which offers the taxi driver the best commission rather than the desired destination, so I walked off to find it for myself. I soon did, and it really was lovely. I approached the reception and asked for a hut and was told none were available that night, but if I stayed in their hotel at the back then I could have one the next day. As I'm planning on staying 3 or 4 nights I agreed and got a pretty nice hotel room for a decent price.
I headed out for some lovely sea food and then discovered a bar that was showing the Arsenal v Everton game. Well, actually I say 'discovered' like I just happened across it, but in reality I'd walked up and down the clifftop 3 times before I managed to hunt one down! I was joined by a nice couple from London. The girl lived in Wood Green and the bloke used to work in Old St so we had a bit in common, and they were also staying in the same place as me. We necked a few beers and talked footie, London, India etc etc and had a good night (only slightly ruined by AJ's last minute winner for the lucky scousers!!)
Next day I rocked up to the reception desk asking for my promised hut, only to be met by blank looks and to be told no huts were available, there were roof problems, blah, blah, blah. I stormed off in a huff, just wishing that people in India would stop lying to me and trying to rip me off just for 5 bloody minutes! India really can be infuriating sometimes, as everyone wants your money and many people have no problem lying or harassing you to get it. On the other hand it's also amazing and the negatives and annoyances are far outweighed by the positives.
In my rage at being denied my bamboo hut experience I stormed straight back to my room to check out immediately because I wasn't going to give them anymore money for another night. BUT then, just as I was unlocking my door on the first floor, I glanced over and saw there was similar bamboo hut village next door. Not quite as nice but the huts looked pretty similar. I popped over and managed to get a hut sorted immediately for much less money. Result! Finally!
I'll be spending a few more days here on the beach before heading to Kollam from where I'll be heading out to see Kerala's famous backwaters for a day.
I have to say I'm a pretty rubbish traveller so far, my main crime being that I took an air-conditioned taxi the 70km from kovalam to here! It cost Rs 1400 which is about 15 pounds, which is really quite a lot of money in india and not in the spirit of 'roughing it' at all. Oh well, I'm going to get a cab to my next destination as its only about 5-10 km away, but after that I'm going to resolve to use trains and buses for the bulky parts of my journey. Anway I can't very well get a taxi up the entire 1000 mile coastline.... hmmm can I?!
Before departing for Varkala I'd read in the lonely planet about a great bamboo hut complex to stay at. I asked the taxi driver to drop me there, and he said "yes, yes, I know it, took your friend there". We arrived at a couple of shabby looking, two-storeyed bamboo huts that didn't exactly look like beautiful lush surroundings promised in the guide. I had a quick look round and came to the conclusion I had clearly been taken to the place which offers the taxi driver the best commission rather than the desired destination, so I walked off to find it for myself. I soon did, and it really was lovely. I approached the reception and asked for a hut and was told none were available that night, but if I stayed in their hotel at the back then I could have one the next day. As I'm planning on staying 3 or 4 nights I agreed and got a pretty nice hotel room for a decent price.
I headed out for some lovely sea food and then discovered a bar that was showing the Arsenal v Everton game. Well, actually I say 'discovered' like I just happened across it, but in reality I'd walked up and down the clifftop 3 times before I managed to hunt one down! I was joined by a nice couple from London. The girl lived in Wood Green and the bloke used to work in Old St so we had a bit in common, and they were also staying in the same place as me. We necked a few beers and talked footie, London, India etc etc and had a good night (only slightly ruined by AJ's last minute winner for the lucky scousers!!)
Next day I rocked up to the reception desk asking for my promised hut, only to be met by blank looks and to be told no huts were available, there were roof problems, blah, blah, blah. I stormed off in a huff, just wishing that people in India would stop lying to me and trying to rip me off just for 5 bloody minutes! India really can be infuriating sometimes, as everyone wants your money and many people have no problem lying or harassing you to get it. On the other hand it's also amazing and the negatives and annoyances are far outweighed by the positives.
In my rage at being denied my bamboo hut experience I stormed straight back to my room to check out immediately because I wasn't going to give them anymore money for another night. BUT then, just as I was unlocking my door on the first floor, I glanced over and saw there was similar bamboo hut village next door. Not quite as nice but the huts looked pretty similar. I popped over and managed to get a hut sorted immediately for much less money. Result! Finally!
I'll be spending a few more days here on the beach before heading to Kollam from where I'll be heading out to see Kerala's famous backwaters for a day.
2 comments:
Hi Scott
Sounds like you're having loads of excitement and really getting into the Indian life - by watching English football!! Have you found the Irish Bar yet? :)
I went into CB the other day for a meeting. Very odd as there was hardly anyone there - apart from a whole bunch of fundraisers!! There was even someone sitting in your old desk!!
Enjoy your Indian adventures and keep up with the blog - makes for interesting reading for us armchair explorers!
Cheers, Richard
Hi Richard,
I do emerse myself in Indian culture sometimes... I watched some cricket the other day! :)
As for CB, someone else is very welcome to my old desk! I assure you I'm not sentimental about it. I'll stick with white beaches and the Arabian sea thank you very much! (and I'm sure the Devon coastline is a very nice alternative too).
Scott
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